2013 Vietti Barbera d'Alba Scarrone, Piedmont

The fruit comes from a vineyard planted in 1993. In 1992 it was a poor year so Scarrone was vinified separately. A lightbulb moment. Some under performing nebbiolo vines were taken away to make room for barbera, unheard of in the golden triangle of ‘grand cru’ nebbiolo sites. Dark cherry, tar, ash, malt powder, leather, dried herbs and briar. Savoury. In the palate there’s a good, pleasing rugged chomp to tannin bathing concetrated dark fruit flavours, Chinese five spice spiciness, leathery in its finish, then lick of cleaning acidity. Brooding, dark, dense wine yet finds its feet in its own version of elegance and great length.