2016 Kooyong Farrago Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula

The hierarchy of Koooyong's wines is distinctive, with an ascension of complexity and length palpably clear as one reaches the apex: this stunning chardonnay and indeed, the Faultline, too. The difference? The Farrago is furled across a mineral beam, that opens more readily, exposing the fruit and joy of the wine with a little air. Stony. Tangerine, peach and nectarine segue to a lime-inflected flintiness, filling out across the palate with notes of hay, oatmeal and lees-inflected curd. The oak is perfectly positioned as a signpost to guide this beauty across the next decade.

96 points Ned Goodwin MW winecompanion.com.au