2017 Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc, Geelong

The Matt Holmes’ versions of this wine feel a tad lighter on their feet than Glover’s deep-set ‘beasties’. The 2017 was drawn mostly from 1996 plantings on the eastern edge of the Winery Block, with some fruit from new plantings on Olive Tree Hill. Holmes then split the fruit three ways: a third was destemmed and lightly crushed before fermentation on skins for one week, finishing in older puncheons; another was whole-bunch pressed to puncheons (10% new); and the remainder whole-bunch pressed to tank. The results, as the notes below make clear, is one of Australia’s finest examples of this grape.

You can throw this into a large-bowled glass and treat it like chardonnay, such is its texture and weight, though of course its flavour profile is all sauvignon blanc. Or a sophisticated version of the variety in any case. Clear lines of smoke and lemongrass, gravel and citrus, with almond and floral notes for good measure. Acid darts through the palate but there's some chub to the texture, courtesy of its time on skins. Short-medium term time should be kind.

93 points Campbell Mattison winecompanion.com.au