Not a fan of what he calls 'skinny' Chardonnay, Gary Mills' fleshy, textural Madame Chard has become a touchstone value for those of us who like something to hang on to in our Chardonnay. Version '17--a blend of Yarra Valley and Upper Goulburn fruit--comes sourced from Spring Lane in Coldstream, and a windy granitic Alpine vineyard in Mansfield. As usual, there is very little 'making' in the winemaking: fruit is all handpicked and whole bunch pressed, with full solids, into new 800-litre Rousseau muids (20%) and older barrels, fermented with indigenous yeasts and left on its lees for eight months before being bottled unfiltered and unfined.
"Yarra Valley and Mansfield fruit. Leesy, cheesy, touch of smoke, honeyed apple, ripe lemon. Nice, savoury-edged start. Starburst of grapefruit and green apple, licks of oatmeal, juiciness, a smudge of nuttiness. It's complex and refreshing hand-in-hand. Delicious drinking."