2017 Murdoch Hill Artisan Tilbury Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills

Drawn from a selection of high altitude vineyards, Michael Downer's live wire Tilbury Chardonnay is capable of delivering some of the most pristine and mineral-laced Chardonnay in the Hills. Predominately from a vineyard in the Piccadilly Valley, the remaining fruit is sourced from mature vines in Lobethal and Kenton Valley. All the vineyards sit between 450-550 metres and cover a wide mix of clones, including Bernard C76, C95 and C96 with I10VI, G9V7 and Mendoza. 

All the fruit was hand harvested and whole berry/whole bunch pressed into older French oak, including foudre, for natural fermentation. To balance the often-searing freshness of his high grown fruit, Downer allows part of the crop to finish its malolactic fermentation, while a little lees stirring brings further texture without compromising the vineyard's immaculate fruit quality. A cool growing season has made for a scintillating 2017; subtle citrus and perfumed floral notes, a slaty mineral backbone and a bright, juicy, grapefruit texture weaving throughout savoury characters derived from subtle oak élevage.

A more savoury style in 2017, and some new foudres in the mix of barrels utilised. Murdoch Hill under the guidance of Michael Downer now soaring. If you ever wanted to see a chardonnay with grape flavour and judicious winemaking overlay in the modern, skinnier context, here's one to roll into. Spice, nougat, whiff of sea spray, lemon and green apple - a good start right here. Poise and precision, rush of flinty mineral charm, lean grapefruity tang, so much going on in such a compact whoosh of chardonnay. There's inherent grape character interred in layers of spice, light saline character and a kiss of sweet oak spice. Just so. Delicious too. Superb stuff."