2020 Alphonse Mellot Sancerre La Moussiere, Loire Valley

Biodynamic. La Moussière is one of the great vineyards of the Loire Valley. With incredibly rocky, limestone-rich soils, this gently rolling vineyard lies on the ancient Saint-Doulchard marls, which form a part of the great Kimmeridgian chain (à la Chablis). Coupled with Mellot's meticulous biodynamic farming and low yields, it’s a terroir responsible for some of Sancerre's most striking and atypical wines.
 
As usual, 50% of this wine underwent fermentation in huge wooden fermenters and was raised in oak casks—a fact that in no way compromises the fabulous purity and energy on offer. The balance of the wine was fermented and raised in traditional concrete vats before blending. All the wine was aged on fine lees for a period of roughly 12 months, further enhancing the wine's famously deep and pulpy texture.
 
Reminiscent of topflight Chablis, those who crave flesh, purity and tension in their white wines will be well advised to jump aboard. According to the year, it’s a potent yet fine-boned rendition, with a beautiful weave of lemon pith and white peach. Layers of silky texture are balanced by threads of wet stone minerality, spicy freshness and a long, saline finish. A great Moussière.

Alphonse Mellot is based in the heart of the town of Sancerre. La Moussière is a large parcel of vines planted on marls overlaying Kimmeridgian limestone to the west of the town. The domaine is certified both organic and biodynamic. Grapes are hand-picked and 50% is vinified in new barrels and the rest in vats. Wine is matured on fine lees for 7-8 months. The 2020 is a very rich, ripe, powerful and complex with a long finish. Still young with considerable potential to age.

92 points Jim Budd decanter.com