2018 Weingut Keller Gruner Silvaner Trocken, Rheinhessen

35-year-old vines from the Steingrube and Bürgel vineyards – so-called 'younger vines', at least compared with those for Feuervogel. Very pale. A shock to the system after the Spätburgunders. Has an intense grassy freshness, steely citrus. Juicy, scented on the palate, delicate and beautifully fresh. Only the merest hint of Silvaner’s earthy character – more of an almond-like quality that reminds me of some northern Italian whites. Zesty and full of citrus green-fruited energy. Persistent and mouth-watering. Precise, clean-cut but not simple.

Julia Harding, jancisrobinson.com