Whole-bunch pressed, fermented wild in French hogsheads and puncheons (20% new), 10 months on lees, partial mlf. True to the Bannockburn style which offers both power and finesse. The former is set in structure and solid in body. The latter is all about a world of marvellous fruit and oak flavours: mandarin skin, nectarine, white peach, buttered toast, almond bread, quince paste. It's dense, lifted by a citrusy acidity that is just so cleansing, so right.
95 points Jeni Port winecompanion.com.au
The quality and style on offer here can be traced back to the estate’s Olive Tree Hill Vineyard (planted in 1976 and abutting the S.R.H parcel) and Winery Block (1981), which are both on volcanic soils over limestone clays with an average vine age of around 35 years. Recently, the Estate Chardonnay has also included fruit from the Kelly Lane Vineyard (Clone 76). Whole-bunch pressed and settled overnight, the juice was then wild-fermented in mainly 500-litre French oak hogsheads (20% new), with 70% undergoing malolactic. The wine spent 10 months on lees with no stirring, and no sulphur was added until bottling.
With more intensity and mineral force than last year’s release, the 2021 combines the depth, balance and finesse reminiscent of the finest Bannockburn Chardonnay vintages.
The palate is crystalline and deeply cast, shining with peak-of-ripeness orchard fruit, dappled with saline nuance and a pinch of spice from the barrels. The flow is seamless and ripe without being too creamy, with the wine’s mouth-filling richness brought into focus by ripe, vibrant acidity and a nip of phenolic grip. Everything is in its place. It already drinks impressively but will benefit from time in the bottle.