2017 Benjamin Leroux Bourgogne Blanc, Burgundy

Screwcap. The stunning Bourgogne Blanc is a mini-Meursault this year, with the lion’s share of fruit drawn from multiple parcels in the village, including Leroux’s own vines in Sous la Velle and Les Belles Côtes. Then, there’s 10% from the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune. Raised in 12-hectolitre foudres and some 300-litre barrels, this has quite remarkable richness, depth and class for the level. Picked in late August, it’s a perfectly pitched, grapefruit, fresh pear and almond-noted wine that’s finely structured with a long and juicy finish. A benchmark Bourgogne Blanc (and it’s ditto for the Rouge below). It’s frustrating to note, but if this carried villages on the label it would certainly score higher!

“Fermented and raised mostly in oval foudres. 90% comes from Benjamin’s own vines below Meursault, with 10% from the Hautes Côtes. Pale colour, the nose has attractive white fruit. This starts quietly but then expands gracefully on the palate. No more than middleweight but really refined.” 

“Fresh yellow color. Ripe orchard fruits and a touch of reduction on the nose. Soft and creamy, with Meursault-like flavors of peach and orange zest. At once fat and quite dry, this Bourgogne saturates the mouth.”