2013 Laherte Frères Blanc de Noirs Les Longues Voyes, Champagne

Disgorged January 2017. 100% Pinot Noir. This is the inaugural release of Aurélien Laherte's 100% Pinot Noir, Blanc de Noirs. Les Longues Voyes translates as ‘The Long Way’, referring not only to the 25 km that you need to travel from the Laherte Estate to arrive at the vineyard, but also the wine's extended barrel ageing: 19 months in barrel and 18 months in bottle. The fruit is sourced from a single hectare of biodynamic vines in Chamery, in the Montagne de Reims, that is owned by a good friend of Aurélien Laherte's. Here the 35-year-old vines are rooted in clay and silts over a limestone base. It's made from a single 4-tonne press of grapes and naturally fermented and matured in old Clos des Epeneaux and Benjamin Leroux barrels. As per Les Vignes d'Autrefois, there is no malo and the dosage is a low 3 g/L. So, now the Estate has two vintage Blanc de Noirs released at the same time: Les Vignes d'Autrefois from Meunier and Les Longues Voyes from Pinot Noir. The first comes from a chalky subsoil and the second from limestone, and it is fascinating to compare the different structures that result. This is wonderfully vinous with pulpy, grenadine and blackcurrant fruits and some racy, spicy, nettle-like notes on the close. The acidity is firmer here than the Vignes d'Autrefois, with a chewy austerity that is very typical of limestone in Champagne. An outstanding Blanc de Noirs and an exciting first release.

The 2013 Extra Brut Blanc de Noirs Les Longues Voyes 1er Cru offers lovely... character in its dried pear and floral notes. Soft and open-knit on the palate, the Longues Voyes is one of the most immediate, accessible wines in this lineup.”