2017 Pierre-Marie Chermette Beaujolais Origine Vieilles Vignes, Beaujolais

 Stelvin. Do not hit the back button. As of the 2016 vintage, Vissoux's emblematic Cuvée Traditionnelle Vieilles Vignes has been relabeled as Cuvée Origine Vieilles Vignes. We're guessing the new name further cements the wine's place as standard-bearer for the Domaine. Vissoux's exemplary old vines bottling was first crafted in 1986 at the behest of Jean Brouilly, the then Michelin-starred chef of Tarare restaurant. The idea behind this wine when it was first produced was to be a counter reaction to the prevailing, highly industrial tendencies in Beaujolais of the time. To this end it was (and is) a hand-picked, old vine, low yield wine fermented with whole bunches and natural yeasts. It's unchapitalised, made with low sulphur, and is unfiltered. It was a wine that launched the fame of the producer whilst also igniting heated debate within the region. Even by today's much improved standards, this remains an atypically traditional, non-cru Beaujolais at a great price.The fruit source is four hectares in Saint-Vérand with vines sited on a pocket of dark granite - a soil that partly accounts for the wine's 'cru-level' depth and minerality. The vine age also helps, being 35 to 85 years old. These vines typically produce a considerably deeper, plumper, silkier wine than the Griottes.