2018 Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny, Loire Valley

100% Cabernet Franc. Biodynamic.

Thierry Germain is an exceptional grower. His entry-point Saumur-Champigny is drawn from the Domaine’s younger Cabernet Franc vines, growing on the tuffeau/limestone soils around the communes of Varrains, Chaintres and Saumur. The vines range in age from 5-70 years old (with the average sitting around 25 years) and include some parcels ploughed by Germain’s Ardennais draft horses, Ben and Comtesse.  Harvesting is by hand, a cold soak infusion is employed on some of the parcels, and the wild yeast fermentation and élevage is now carried out only in tank. Aside from a minor 10 ppm SO2 at bottling, this cuvée is raised without any additions at all. As an entry-level wine, this is (again) a killer; darker and plumper than the Les Roches above, there’s a slick of juicy blueberry to go with the floral, graphite and fresh herb notes. Just a stunning wine for the money. 

“… it starts with a quite lovely nose, a perfect entry-level Saumur-Champigny, laden with sweet black cherry stone and a touch of black bean, the concentration of the vintage shining through. The palate carries a bed of sweet licorice, currant and cherry stone fruits, the style fresh and bright, stony but with confident flavours. A charming, fresh and grippy style, wrapped in some bright and tightly grained tannins.”