2008 Bollinger La Grande Annee Brut Magnum, Champagne

29% chardonnay, 71% pinot; from 18 crus, mainly Aÿ and Verzenay for pinot and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant for chardonnay; fermented entirely in barrels; aged 9 years on cork; ‘1846’ bottle for the first time; the front label now declares Elevé en fûts, remué & dégorgé à la main (‘Aged in barrels, riddled and disgorged by hand’); 8g/L dosage; cork

The greatest cuvées do not unveil their true grandeur in seconds or even minutes, and I tasted La Grande Année 2008 six times over two days. At the end of a week of tasting more than 70 cuvées, this was the last wine standing and the only one I chose to return to. The remarkable blossoming of its captivating pinot noir presence is testimony not only to its grandeur but its remarkable longevity. The unleashing of La Grande Année from the greatest vintage in decades comes with tremendous anticipation, not least in that it is the first in the glorious new, narrow-necked ‘1846’ bottle. For all the opulent splendour and vast amplitude that is Bollinger, its hue is a bright, medium straw. The detailed precision of this season presents the space and focus for every element to be laid out with clarity and detail never before visible in a young Bollinger, amplifying its complexity to hitherto unfathomable heights, all the while juxtaposing this with newfound poise and energy. Exceedingly youthful, even by the enduring standards of 2008, it confidently presents the bold presence of pinot noir from the Montagne de Reims’ southern slopes in layers of red cherries, blackberries, satsuma plums and mixed spice, brightened by the crunch of preserved lemon of chardonnay. All the exuberant character of barrel fermentation is on display more visibly than ever, layered in high-cocoa dark chocolate, freshly ground coffee beans, ginger, candied citrus rind and spices of all kinds. Nine years on lees has heightened its creaminess and contributed layers of crème caramel and roast hazelnuts. The acid line of this classic season brings a focus, tension, energy and drive to the finish that promises an exceedingly long life, confidently supported by the frothing salt minerality of thundering grand cru proportions, the commanding voice of four of the most profound sparkling crus on earth. Twelve hours after opening, the precise red cherry fruits of pinot noir rose to a resounding presence that utterly trumped all influence of oak and maturity, empowered by scintillating chalk minerality and the laser acidity of 2008. In length and line, this will go down as one of the greatest Bollingers of the modern era. Even at more than a decade of age, it is not nearly ready to be unleashed yet, and demands at least as long again before daring to approach. The house considered not releasing it, but rather holding the full production back for release as R.D. Instead they held back 30–40 percent rather than the usual 10 percent. My advice is to buy as much as you can find the instant it lands, and cellar it as long as you can possibly keep your hands off it.