98 points – Tyson Stelzer, Disgorged 17 May 2017, Tasted in Australia
40% chardonnay, 60% pinot; a blend of 16 grand crus and 7 premier crus; aged 14 years on lees; 3.5g/L dosage
The 2002 was an exhilarating LGA of driving energy and a razor edge of structure that barely evolved across the years of its release cycle. It naturally makes for a brilliant and enduring R.D. that is maturing every bit as slowly and magnificently as we had hoped. It holds a brilliance of light through its now full yellow-gold hue, upholding youthful dynamism and focus, still reflecting brilliant lemon freshness and wonderful tension. Projecting all the exuberance of pinot noir’s red cherry and plum fruits, it strikes a wonderful interplay with the mixed spice of barrel fermentation and the integration of 17 years of age, creating creamy depth amidst tightly honed focus. The rising depth of powerful maturity billows with all the layers of brioche, toffee, dark chocolate, dried peach and crystallised orange that we love from Bollinger, concluding in epic line and persistence that promise many years of stamina yet..