2008 Dm du Clos Naudin Vouvray Demi-Sec (23grm rs), Loire Valley

“I don't have any figures for this cuvée to hand, but in terms of residual sugar and balance it feels very similar to the wines from Domaine Huet and Vincent Carême, tasted alongside, putting it in the mid-twenties. It has a pale golden hue in the glass, and simply enchanting aromatics, starting off with autumnal scents of crushed apples, then developing more caramelised notes, going into tarte tatin, along with nuances of sweet oranges, chalk dust, lemon balm and barley sugar. This is followed by a wonderfully tense palate, with more apples, lemon zest and chalk dust, along with a huge grip and energy. This is a demi-sec of fine balance and poise, energy and texture, especially in the finish which is brimming with character. A beautifully balanced but seductive style. Drink now or hold.