2013 Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 1er Cru Non Dosé, Champagne

Disgorged March 2019. Terre de Vertus is one of four single-terroir Chardonnay wines produced at this Estate (including the Rosé de Saignée) and is certainly the most famous. It comes from the chalky 1er Cru vineyard plots of Les Barillers and Les Faucherets, situated mid-slope in Vertus. These sites make arguably the most explicitly mineral wines of the village; wines that can bring to mind the best of Le Mesnil (just to the north) in their chalky raciness and drive. The natural fermentations begin spontaneously (without inoculation) in large oval Stockinger and the wines are left on their natural lees for nearly a year (and undergo gentle bâtonnage). There is no fining or filtration prior to bottling and the wine is non-dosé (no sugar is added), in order to respect its purity from beginning to end. The result is one of the most distinctive and mineral wines of the entire Champagne region and today it is one of the touchstone wines of the great grower movement.

Note that this has always been a non-dosé, since the mid 90’s and long before it was fashionable. The Larmandier’s made the decision because this particular terroir (when farmed in their way: old vines, biodynamics and low yields) works best without any additions. The 2013 harvest was a late one that has resulted in an absolutely classic expression of this wine. It’s already brimming with seductive flesh, terrific drive and that trademark linear and earthy close of a classic Terre de Vertus. Already drinking brilliantly. Try with oysters, terrine, hard cheeses, roast chicken and grilled white fish.

The 2013 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Terre de Vertus 1er Cru is bright, tightly wound and focused, all qualities that are further brought out by the non-dosé style. Candied citrus, crushed rocks, slate and a slight touch of classic reduction adds character. The Terre de Vertus is a blend from the Les Barillers and Les Faucherets fermented 60% in neutral barrique and 40% in foudre, and then aged on the cork. No dosage.”