2013 Ch de la Tour Grand Cru Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes, Burgundy

Eked out from the oldest vines in the Clos, the Vieilles Vignes is a spellbinding, muscular Burgundy, whose core is based on the domaine's renowned 1910 plantings - situated right in the middle of the Clos. The vines here are, obviously, over 100 years old and generally yield only 2 - 3 bunches of grapes per vine. The result is a juice that yields a wine with an intensity, breadth of flavour, complexity and structural power that is unique. This cuvée sees 100% new oak for its élevage, but the wine shows only subtle influence thanks to the quality of Labet's oak, which is made to order. Labet buys and ages his own tight-grain staves (for 2-3 years) and then has barrels (mostly 350-litre and some 450-litre) made by the tiny cooper Stéphane Chassin. He and Chassin taste the first of the wines to finish fermenting each vintage (from tank), so that Chassin knows how to finish the barrels. 2013 saw a very light toast, allowing the fruit quality achieved at the domaine to shine though unfettered.

This is always a denser, darker wine than the Classique. When tasted in Vougeot, the 2013 was classic Vieilles Vignes; a tightly wound mass of deep fruit (blackberry essence and inky notes) with vibrant energy and freshness, and a seemingly never-ending, stone-etched finish. Firmly structured and with years ahead of it, it is still a super impressive bottle now with food.

Don't Miss! Noticeable but not invasive wood frames a slightly riper array of aromas that are quite similar to those of the regular cuvée. Here too there is outstanding density and power to the even more concentrated broad-shouldered and robust flavors that possess even better depth and persistence on the impeccably well-balanced, saline and palate coating finish. This is presently extremely primary and while it's clear that this offers huge upside development potential it's also clear that plenty of patience will be required.