Gattinara is regarded as the crown jewel of wines from alto Piemonte and was first declared a DOC in 1967. If you love Nebbiolo, this is a wine to discover.
Located on the western border of the DOCG, sitting up at 420 metres, Molsino is the largest of the vineyards and faces mostly in a classic south-west exposure. It has a natural amphitheatre shape, which helps retain plenty of perfect Nebbiolo ripening warmth – required at these cooler areas. Fermentation and maceration is exactly the same as for the ‘Valferana’ but the ‘Molsino’, though tightly wound on release (perhaps even more than ‘Valferana’), opens up and can be lush by comparison, still underpinned by evident structure and tang, but more generous with cherry, plum and balsamic (local bush sage) over and above.
Tasted next to the Valferana, the 2016 Gattinara Vigna Molsino is much more nervous in feel. Iron, dried herbs, sweet dried cherry, mint, crushed rocks, white pepper and earthy notes give the Molsino a good deal of aromatic complexity to match its intense, saline-infused minerality. Today, though, the tannins and acids are almost overpowering. Readers will find an old-school, classically austere Gattinara that needs 10-15 years to be at its best. The 2016 is an absolute jewel of a wine, but it should be purchased only by readers with either very good genes are a ton of optimism regarding their own longevity.