Disgorged January 2018 Tasted in Champagne and Australia
100% grand cru Côte des Blancs chardonnay; 60% Avize and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, the pillars of Comtes, for structure and finesse, then Chouilly for body and strength, Oger and a little less than 10% Cramant; 5% from Chouilly aged (not fermented) for 6 months in young oak barrels (new, with one-third renewed each year) to add body and subtle burnt-vanilla and coconut character; 9g/L dosage
‘It is the blade of the sword of the story of Taittinger!’ exclaims Damien Le Sueur of the 2007 vintage. ‘Exactly the idea that I have for Comtes in terms of finesse. After the freshness of 2004, the density and maturity of 2005 and the balance of 2006, the 2007 vintage is all about chalk structure and finesse more than freshness.’ He arrived at Taittinger in January 2007 and his first question of Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger was why ‘Grands Crus’ was not on the label. He agreed immediately, but was not able to action this for the vintages in the cellar at the time, since the documentation was not retained to show the traceability for every vat in the blends. Hence, ‘Grands Crus’ appears on the label for the first time from 2007.
After the might of 2005 and 2006, there is a pretty elegance, exacting purity and beguiling freshness to 2007 that I find thrillingly compelling, and it’s captured in pinpoint detail in this enchanting Comtes. The theme of radiant freshness of lemon blossom and fragrant finesse of apple of its first release two years ago has been upheld, deepened into delightful notes of brioche, marzipan, nougat, vanilla cream and almond. The grilled-toast reduction of chardonnay presents a delightfully complexing nuance, as does the creamy texture of lees age, both amplified by the toasty, biscuity, nutty touch of a little barrel maturation. The chalk mineral signature of Comtes rumbles magnificently with the ancient geology of the finest grand crus of the Côte des Blancs. Still pale and bright straw in hue with a green tint at 12 years of age, this is my style of Comtes. In line and length, it is pristine, determined, undeviating and captivating. It upholds an air of eloquent confidence, effortless harmony and graceful beauty. Turn down the lights and the music and pour it for the one you love most.
98 points Tyson Stelzer tysonstelzer.com