Tilson Vineyard, in the town of Leongatha, Gippsland, east-facing, cops morning sun but not arvo sun. Ripens a little later than some in the region, “but ready to go at lower alcohol”, says winemaker Marcus Satchell, “but it has a lot more restraint in terms of our vineyards, more natural acidity, likely brought on by its aspect”. An intriguing, sophisticated and delicious project emerging under the Dirty Three banner, if not already arrived.Flint, smoke, red cherry, dried herbs, old pot pourri. It’s not musty but has scents of antique stores and old rooms, in the best possible way. Some flesh to texture, tinned cherry flavours, a touch of hazelnut and then a tightening of smooth-slate textural and mineral elements and then bright, lean acidity finishes the wine with an almost vermouth-like twist. It’s a cool climate pinot expression to the max. Exciting.
94 points Mike Bennie winefront.com.au Jun 2019 Drink 2019-2026
Tilson’s vineyard dirt is also volcanic but a mixture of deep red and brown soil. Vines are close-planted, around 1-2m between vines and the site is east-facing. No whole bunch fermentation was used for this wine, otherwise made in a similar fashion to Dirt 1. The brown soils seem to offer a more serious, dark fruited wine on first sniff. Hints of bacon, warm stewed red and purple fruits with a cranberry acid line throughout makes my mouth water for duck breast or aubergine with a balsamic glaze. There is a supple silkiness and fine spice to this wine that draws you in.