The Clos du Chapître is a Monopole vineyard for this producer. The one-hectare plot is located behind the family house and cellars within the Rully 1er Cru Chapître, enclosed by a two-metre high stone wall. The Pinot yields here are controlled by severe pruning, de-budding and green harvesting. There is also manual sorting of bunches in order to keep only the most beautiful clusters of fruit. This year, only 20% of whole bunches were retained and the wine was aged in oak barrels (50% new) for 15 months before bottling.
Jancis Robinson MW has written that the wines from this site “offer proof that the Côte Chalonnaise can now field wines of serious interest to those raised on Côte d’Or wines.” Defaix’s 2019 brings this observation home with a bang. It delivers the expected step up from the village Rully in depth, structure and complexity, yet there’s no lack of levity and brightness. Reminiscent of a good Nuits-Saint-Georges, it opens with a core of sweet fruit, earth and spice, and its supple, deep-pile texture is cut by lots of energy and snap. In short, a cracking vintage for this cuvée. When you factor in the price (this is a 1er Cru wine) and remember that many in the Côte d'Or are charging similar or even higher prices for Bourgogne-level wines, it’s a no-brainer.
Here the nose is quite firmly reduced though the underlying fruit seems quite ripe. There is more volume still to the solidly concentrated medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a robust, powerful and slightly austere finale. This is sufficiently firm to require at least a few years of patience.