2019 Thymiopoulos ATMA Red Xinomavro Mandiaria, Naoussa Macedonia

This intriguing grape variety delivers an idiosyncratic wine that is extremely multifaceted, powerful, yet not profound or saturating. It has a complex, intricate and intellectually challenging personality while at the same time it is an ideal accompaniment to foods with intense and rich flavours, a mandatory feature of all Greek wines. Xinomavro wines are usually released on the market when they are at least two years of age, having spent a significant proportion of that time in oak and in bottle. These wines tend to rise to prominence with aging and are bright red in colour, with firm tannins, tight structure, bright acidity and a personality oozing pure elegance. The essence of the Xinomavro character can be found in the complex, distinct aromas of red fruits, flowers, tomatoes, olives, dried prunes, tobacco and nuts, while wood-aging becomes evident in the subtle hints of spices. The bottle aging potential of these wines is long and nothing less than remarkable.

Amorgiano; Pariano; Vaftra; Koundoura Black; Mandilari: These are but a few of the names of the late-harvested red grape Mandilaria variety and serve as testimonials to the extent to which the variety has spread throughout Greece and the Greek isles in particular. As early as the time of Pausanias, Mandilaria has participated in the production of the renowned Ariousios wine from Chios. Today, it is also blended in a great number of reds, rosés, and dessert wines with a strong identity and personality. Nevertheless, Mandilaria monovarietals are quite rare.

The Mandilaria heartland is to be found in the Aegean Islands and in Crete. It is thus no coincidence that in those areas, the variety participates in the PDO Peza, Archanes, PDO Paros reds and is entirely responsible for the production of the PDO Rhodes red. On those islands’ wind-swept and sun-scorched vineyards, the goblet-pruned Mandilaria acquires extraordinary characteristics: It assumes a dark red color; aromas of vine-ripened fruit; fleshy aromas (e.g., of leather); and a medium body with unrestrained, hefty tannins. Toiling hard both at the vineyard and at the winery and by mixing it with other varieties (the white Monemvassia, in Paros and the soft red Kotsifali in Crete) many a wine grower of note have been trying to tame the overall untethered nature of Mandilaria. Still, leaving it in the bottle for a few years is the best way to find ourselves before a “European” wine whose taste travels you to the magnificent place of its origin.

Imposing in personality, the unique variety of Mandilaria invariably leaves on Greek wine its indelible stamp which, be it impressive or imperceptible, never fails to reveal the variety’s terroir identity. Given the variety’s multi-faceted character, daring wine lovers wishing to expand their palette of aromas and tastes, will find an excuse to fill their glasses with some Mandilaria.

https://winesofgreece.org/varieties/mandelaria/