2020 Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Rouge La Moussière, Loire Valley

Biodynamic. Mellot’s village Pinot is drawn from 5.5 hectares of densely planted vines in La Moussière on Saint-Doulchard marl. The older vines and lower yields (about the same as a Burgundy winemaker would take off Clos de La Roche) gift a linear yet supple red in the mould of a fine Côte de Beaune. Mellot ferments this cuvée in 60-hectolitre wooden vats, beginning with a five to 10-day cold maceration before alcoholic fermentation with punchdowns. The wines then go into young ex-Burgundy oak for 10 to 18 months.

The best Sancerre Pinots can give good Burgundy a run for its money, and few would argue there is a finer address for Sancerre rouge than Alphonse Mellot. Indulged by another warm, sunny growing season, the 2020 is packed with vitality and bustles with black raspberry fruit, pink peppercorn and winter spice. Fine-boned tannins and a wonderfully voluminous palate of succulent fruit and forest floor stream into a refreshing, chalky structure brightened by a fine line of acidity. It finishes with substance and tapering length. It is a deeply impressive Sancerre rouge that begs for a few years to really come into its own.