2017 Paradise IV J.H. Dardel Shiraz, Geelong

A masterpiece. Smoky, mineral and profoundly floral aromas of black and blue berries, paprika and exotic, musky spices, charcuterie and forest floor combine in an alluring, sensual bouquet. Explosively intense and exceptionally long, its energetic but medium-bodied palate of dark fruits, briar and tight-knit oak builds effortless depth and emphasis along its silky-fine backbone, finishing with suggestions of minerals, licorice and a racy, mouth watering acidity. It's an exercise in finesse and restrained power; the finest release under this label and a new high-water mark in Australia for northern Rhône-inspired shiraz.

Deep, bright red colour with a good purple rim and a deliciously spicy, red-fruited bouquet. Hints of graphite, black pepper and just a hint of vegetal character. It's already very complex and stylish, showing great potential. The palate is medium to full-bodied and elegantly-crafted, with abundant supple tannins and terrific length. An outstanding shiraz, in the mould of the stellar 2010 Dardel. Drink 2019–2039

The J.H.Dardel Shiraz is from the historic Paradise IV vineyard. Deliciously complex aromas with red fruits, assorted spices and subtle vegetal hints. Graphite and black pepper also make an appearance. Medium bodied but quite powerful, with supple tannins and terrific length.