2017 Benjamin Leroux Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Baudines, Cote de Beaune

The 3.60-hectare Les Baudines vineyard sits up high on the slope, near the treeline on the southwestern border of Chassagne. Les Baudines is essentially a continuation of Les Embazées (below) but from vines higher on the hillside where there is less top soil and the vines therefore plunge straight into the limestone. In 2017 there was considerably higher acidity levels than Embazées (yet with the same pH).  Regardless, it’s a very cool site with mostly white clay soils and offers a terroir that perfectly suits Leroux’s desire to produce fine-boned Chassagne. From vines planted in the 1980s, the 2017 was raised in large-format oak ovals gifting a driven, chiselled and mineral-flecked Chassagne packed with ripe pear, mixed citrus and then a long finish with grip and chalky tension.

Sweet spot. Outstanding. An elegant, pure and very pretty nose combines notes of various white flowers with those of citrus peel and spiced apple. The sleeker, more finely detailed and more mineral-driven if less seductive flavors possess a more sophisticated texture while exhibiting very fine depth and persistence on the chalky finish. Lovely stuff.

  

Bright, light yellow. Crushed-stone minerality dominates the nose. Chalky more than fruity on the sappy palate, with surprising acidity lifting and extending the distinctly tactile, somewhat phenolic finish. Quite serious and backward.