2017 Benjamin Leroux Volnay 1er Cru En Caillerets, Cote de Beaune

Leroux could hardly conceal his excitement when he first told us about his newest Volnay contract, and that excitement is certainly borne out in the wine itself. Caillerets is simply the most revered site in Volnay. Bordering the 1er Cru Les Santenots to the south, and En Champans to the north, this beautifully exposed vineyard sits mid-slope and is exploited by growers such as d’Angerville, Lafarge and Pousse d’Or. The 14-odd hectares are subdivided into three lieux-dits, with Leroux now farming 0.5 hectares of Pinot Fin (planted in 1945, 1985 and the late ‘90s) in the area known as Cailleret Dessus. Crafted with 70% whole bunches—only the fruit from the youngest vines were destemmed—the wine was aged in roughly 25% new oak. In a word, stunning. Bathed in silky red and blue fruits and marked floral lift, it’s a deep and seductive reflection of the vineyard, with the whole-bunch component completely soaked up by the wines depth and finesse and the vineyard’s hallmark streak of minerality. One of the wines of the vintage here.

Ben Leroux always favours freshness and elegance in his wines and that's the case for this fine, detailed Volnay premier cru, with two-thirds whole bunches and 25% new wood contributing to the complexity. Subtle and floral with lovely precision.

Excellent rich purple colour. The bouquet shows an absolute wealth of fruit, this is magical – it is not just the quality of the fruit but the density of the structure behind, tannins and acidity perfectly knit and a fine long finish. This is really something for the vintage, and the limited yield of 35 hl/ha may be part of the explanation.” 

This too is aromatically cool, airy and pure with notes of red berries, dark raspberry and a notably broader range of spice elements. There is terrific underlying tension to the richer and more concentrated medium-bodied flavors that deliver fine length on the youthfully austere and serious finish. Classy juice.”