2016 Chandon de Briailles Corton-Clos du Roi Grand Cru, Burgundy

At an average age of 60 years old, the Domaine’s vines in the Clos du Roi are some of their oldest. Not without reason did Louis XI confiscate this vineyard for his own purposes! It remained as the Clos du Roi (the Clos of the King) until the French Revolution three centuries later. The wine comes from just 0.4 hectares of millerandage affected vines that produce tiny bunches and berries, and the 2015 is simply magic. So perfumed and floral and fine with wild red fruits and white strawberry notes. It’s so damn seductive until the savoury, powdery tannins kick in and you’re reminded that you’re in a great Corton terroir. The length is super impressive too. 100% whole bunch as always.

(from a very steep, rocky slope just below Le Corton; made with 80% whole clusters but the team crushes the fruit gently by foot because they like to start the fermentation with some juice at the bottom): Good dark red. The most floral of these '16s on the nose, offering captivating aromas of blackberry, licorice and salty, flinty minerality. Delivers a rare combination of silky texture and peppery energy, with its dark raspberry, licorice and effervescent spice flavors showing terrific definition and verve. Finishes broad, very long and refined, with wonderfully suave tannins and slowly mounting flavors of licorice and flowers. A wine of superb intensity and class, and sweeter on the back end than the Bressandes.

92-95 points Stephen Tanzer vinous.com