2017 Moreau-Naudet Chablis 1er Cru Forêts, Burgundy

Stéphane Moreau called Forêts “...one of the greatest terroirs of Chablis.” It’s a historical sub-plot within the 1er Cru Montmains, located high up the slope, facing southeast. It can certainly produce Chablis of the highest order, as both Dauvissat and Moreau have shown many times (Raveneau also has a small parcel here). Moreau farms two plots of vines here, totalling just under two hectares. The first is right alongside the vineyard of Vincent Dauvissat and the vines are approximately the same age (60 years old). The second, with 25-year-old vines, sits next to the Raveneau parcel. As with all of the 1er Cru wines from Moreau-Naudet the wine is aged and fermented in both steel tank and used barrels (30%) of various sizes. As pure as Chablis gets, the 2017 is a pithy, buzzing Forêts balancing intensity, finesse and a chiselled, lime-scented close.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Forêts is showing superbly after another winter on the lees, unfurling in the glass with a bouquet of citrus fruit, white flowers and crisp yellow apples that are less forthcoming than that of the expressive Vaillons. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with excellent tension at the core and a compelling sense of completeness. This will warrant at least a few years' patience.”