2011 Poderi Aldo Conterno Colonnello Barolo, Piedmont

The 2011 Barolo Bussia Colonnello shows a compelling level of brawn and heft. This is an elaborate vinous patchwork with dark fruit nuances backed by ethereal tones of balsam herb and licorice. The wine is sturdy, compact and extremely well-constructed. It takes a few minutes to open, but once it does Barolo Bussia Colonnello bursts forth with blackberry, plum, spice and rum cake. Menthol tones and balsam herbs add an important sense of vertical lift and buoyancy. They add beautiful contrasts to the ripe and brawny aromatic elements also on display..