2014 Dm du Clos Naudin Vouvray Sec, Loire Valley

“This pale-looking wine kicks off with an appealing nose, showing a little funk in the first few minutes after pulling the cork, but after a little time in the glass this blows off to reveal scents of baked lemons, sea salt, lime leaf, smoke and stone. In the mouth it shows a textured and honeyed richness at the start, and this runs through the middle, the weight blended with sandy minerals, energy, apricot, peach skin and plum skin with a fine freshness and pithy bitterness. It is bright, pure, a touch challenging in terms of its fruit profile, but energetic and biting in terms of its confidence. An impressive wine overall, and long too. 17.5 •