2013 Le Rocher des Violettes Montlouis sec La Negrette, Loire Valley

100% Chenin Blanc, hand-picked in successive tries from a very old, 2ha vineyard around 90 years old and planted at 7800 vines/ha. Produced from very low yields of just 30hl/ha and barrel-fermented with ambient yeast, followed by an 11 month elevage in 500 litre oak (30% new). Certified organic viticulture.

From old vines, aged 90 years, with élevage in some new demi-muids plus older barriques, aged 5-6 years. A rather restrained character on the nose, with a little trace of honeyed straw which might be the oak coming through, over a layer of very delicate fruit. The palate feels soft, open and loose-knit at the moment, although there is some nice acidity beneath the rather delicate blanket of fruit.

The 2013 Montlouis “Négrette” from Xavier Weisskopf is finished as a Sec, though I do not see this anywhere on the front or back labels. The bouquet is still youthful, but precise and vibrant, offering up notes of quince, lemon peel, chalky soil tones, lanolin and a top-note of white flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and nicely soil-driven, with good, not great depth at the core, zesty acids and lovely focus and grip on the long and nascently complex finish. This wine is approachable today, but still a bit buttoned up behind its girdle of acidity at the present time, and it will be even better with a bit more bottle age. A very strong example of the vintage. 2018-2030+.