2017 Meo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, Cotes de Nuits, Burgundy

The 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with an attractive bouquet of raspberries, red cherries, incense, dark chocolate and cedary new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and pure with a comparatively open-knit profile for Méo's Clos Vougeot, though there is plenty of fine-grained structuring tannin held in reserve, concluding with a nicely focused but youthfully firm finish.

Much more subtle oak treatment sets off the pretty and airy aromas of various red berries, lavender and soft earth scents. The generously proportioned and attractively detailed middle weight flavors are prettier than they are deep though this is not to say that they lack density on the persistent and youthfully austere finale. I quite like this and particularly for its sense of harmony but good as it is, it's clearly not at the same level as the Rognets. However, if the cuvée of Grand Maupertuis (reviewed just below) is included here, I would expect that to improve the overall quality.