2018 Bernard Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet 1500ml, Burgundy

Screwcap. Much like the rest of Burgundy, Chablis’ finest vineyards have (for better or for worse) become synonymous with a symbolic grower. The Defaix cellars sit just below the vines of the bony Léchet hill, in the tiny hamlet of Milly, and Domaine Bernard Defaix is the largest holder of the 1er Cru vineyard Côte de Léchet and ergo its emblematic vigneron (and the site’s only certified organic grower).

Some 10% of this wine (less than normal), was fermented and matured in old, neutral barrels, which previously housed Defaix’s reserve Léchet bottling, with the rest reared in glass-lined tanks. This site has absolutely killed it in 2018. It opens expressively, with lemon rind and yellow orchard fruit shot through with chalky, mineral freshness. The palate delivers the fleshy and seamless extract of the season and is shaped impeccably by cool, juicy acidity and a delicious, quinine-like finish. 

A ripe and ever-so-mildly exotic nose is comprised by notes of citrus, ginger, mineral reduction and yellow orchard fruit that are set off by a subtle application of oak. The round, generous and intense flavors display good minerality and drive while delivering fine length on the powerful, mouth coating and serious finale.