2017 Dm du Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru Biodynamic, Cote de Nuits, Morey-Saint-Denis
A$723.45
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DDLLAM176
By Allen Meadows, burghound.com
As I reported last year, the prospective changing of the guard at this iconic domaine has in fact occurred as long-time régisseur (resident manager) Thierry Brouin, who had held this post since 1980, has retired in favor of Boris Champy. However, lest you thought that the changes had stopped, they haven't because Champy has also left to be replaced by Jacques Devauges, formerly the régisseur of Clos de Tart and Domaine de l'Arlot (see both herein). To assist readers in keeping track of who did what, Brouin vinified the 2017s, Champy vinified the 2018s and Devauges, who assumed his post on March 1st 2019, will be responsible for finishing their élevage and bottling them. Despite not having vinified the 2018s, Devauges was up to speed on all of the details as he was, literally, right next door. His view of the growing season was "2018 was the hottest vintage in France since 1901. Moreover it was precocious in every way with the exception of the bud burst as cool temperatures in March slowed the vegetative cycle just at that point. Thereafter it was really wet and when temperatures began to rise it should have triggered a strong attack of mildew but while there was some, it wasn't a serious problem. The flowering was one of the fastest that I have ever seen and a quick flowering is always a good thing as it makes for uniform maturities and much less sorting for under ripe berries. Clos des Lambrays was picked from the 25th of August to the 3rd of December and the whites were picked on the 27th of August. Yields for the Clos were good and about the same as those of 2017, which is to say 36 hl/ha in 2018 and 37 hl/ha in 2017 whereas those for the other two reds were 45 hl/ha. Yields for the two whites were right at 50 hl/ha. Potential alcohols came in between 13.4 and 13.8% for the reds and 13.8% for the whites. Champy used 80% whole clusters to vinify the Clos, 50% for the Les Loups and none for the Morey villages." The 2017 Clos des Lambrays, reviewed below, was bottled in April 2019 by Devauges without fining or filtration.
burghound.com
Note: produced from two large parcels of differing vine ages - one that is approximately two-thirds of the blend and is now 50+ years of age and a second, smaller group of vines that is approximately 25+ years of age; made with 90% whole cluster and 50% new wood
There are whiffs of herbal tea, floral and spice influences on the essence of red berry aromas that are trimmed in soft wood and earth nuances. The mouthfeel of the medium-bodied flavors is beautifully sleek thanks to the dense but fine-grained tannins shaping the attractively refreshing, youthfully austere and long finale that is quite linear rather than rich. This should further flesh out with bottle age though that will require at least some cellaring.
Score: 92, Allen Meadows, Tasted: Jan 10, 2020, Drink: 2029+ Issue: 77
| Product/Service Sold Out | Yes |
|---|---|
| En Primeur | No |
| New Arrivals | No |
| Wine Type | Red Wine |
| Wine Style | Biodynamic |
| Country | France |
| Region | Cote de Nuits |
| Varietals | Pinot Noir |
| Vintage | 2017 |
| Bottle Size | 750ml |
| Wine Points | 92 |
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