2010 Larmandier-Bernier Vieille Vigne du Levant Grand Cru Extra Brut, Champagne

Disgorged June 2019. This Blanc de Blancs was historically labelled as Vieille Vigne de Cramant. Nothing else has changed save for the name, which is now inspired by the vineyard where the majority of grapes are sourced, Bourron du Levant. The vines here were planted in 1960 and the balance comes from a 0.5-hectare holding in the neighbouring terroir of Le Fond du Bâteau (75-year-old vines). Both plots are located in the heart of Cramant on the east-facing flanks of the Butte de Saran. The soils here have more clay than either the Terre de Vertus and the Chemin’s Avize vineyards, so there is automatically considerably more power. These vines also bask in the first rays of the morning sun, which combined with the low yields, helps to deliver a wine of glowing density and opulence. The winemaking across each of Larmandier’s single-terroir wines is similar—natural fermentation and malo, 12 months in Stockinger cask and no fining or filtration. This cuvée however, spent eight years on lees, and was disgorged with only two grams dosage.

A superb, layered and textural VV du Levant with orange rind, citrus pith and nutty complexity. Silky, yet with a long and racy close. Gorgeous indeed! Try it with veal, pan-fried fish, chicken and so on.

The 2010 Extra Brut Vielle Vigne de Levant Grand Cru is a gorgeous wine for drinking now and over the next handful of years. Aging on the cork for nearly eight years yields a Champagne with real nuance and complexity. Apricot, honey, dried herbs and wild flowers all grace this super- expressive Champagne. Light tropical overtones suggest the 2010 is more of a medium-term drinker rather than a long-distance runner. The 2010 is in a beautiful spot right now to deliver maximum drinking pleasure. I would not push my luck on aging though. Pierre and Sophie Larmandier craft the Levant from 50-70-year-old vines in Cramant. The 2010 was fermented 60% in neutral barrique and 40% in foudre, and then aged on the cork. Dosage: 2 gr/L. Disgorged: June, 2018.