2014 Mastrojanni Rosso di Montalcino DOC, Tuscany

Rosso di Montalcino can be delightful. In a way a good Rosso is more useful, and certainly much less expensive, than the much slower-maturing Brunello. The lighter wine can be released at barely a year old rather than the four long years of élevage required for a Brunello. A good Rosso di Montalcino, such as Mastrojanni’s, with its lively freshness underwritten by full ripeness, gives an inkling of the majesty of a fine Brunello but delivers it all wrapped up and ready to go.

The 2014 Rosso di Montalcino is lean in texture and light in color. Like many of the wines from this vintage, it shows less intensity overall. But it does offer a steady stream of wild berry, cola and cherry aromas that are characteristic of Sangiovese. The finish offers tangy acidity and more easy fruit flavors.