2017 Dm Guiberteau Saumur Rouge Les Chapaudaises, Loire Valley

 New wine, 100% Cabernet Franc. Les Chapaudaises is located in the small village of Bizay, within a half-kilometre of Saumur's prized hill of Brézé. It’s sited next to Guiberteau’s monopole, Clos de Guichaux, on the same sandy tuffeau-limestone, the vines a mix of Chenin Blanc and old-vine Cabernet Franc. One hectare of the Chenin is leased to Romain’s right-hand-man, Brendan Stater-West, with the remaining Chenin finding its way into the Saumur Blanc. But it’s the 1948-planted Cabernet Franc that is Guiberteau’s prize here.

The fruit is de-stemmed and wild-fermented in concrete and aged conical Rousseau vat. This is an incredibly fine and perfumed expression of Saumur, dare I say Burgundian? There a lifted, intriguing and seductive perfume of wild rose, red berries and pine forest leading to a wonderfully delicate palate—bright and juicy yet almost ethereal—with the same, haunting characters as the nose, very fine tannins and only a hint of something smoky on the finish giving any clue as to the variety. Simply outstanding! Open a bottle and, as Zidler cries out in Moulin Rouge!, “It will be: Spectacular Spectacular.”