2019 Giant Steps Tarraford Chardonnay, Yarra Valley

The One That Goes All Minerally.

Huge mineral feel, indeed, you’d paste this into the section under ‘Wine; Minerality’ in an encyclopaedia. All pebbles and talc in perfume, sure, some citrus, citrus blossom, faint bread dough notes, but you’re drawn to the flint and element rocky notes primarily. The palate does the same, flint, wet slate, smooth pebbles rolled around the palate, olive brine, green apple juice and lime comes in too. Feels quite firm despite a sense of juiciness and being dart-shaped and long. Finishes with the faintest kiss of salted nuttiness. Just beautiful. Poised and fine.

Very bright, light, fresh looking colour, with a slivered-almond, lightly-toasted cashew nut bouquet; elements of preserved lemon and honey hovering beneath the surface. A suggestion of butterscotch. The wine is rich and mouth-filling but also retains the finesse and restraint that are hallmarks of the maker. A fuller-bodied style than the Sexton. 17 MAY 2020 Drink 2020–2029