2017 Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits Burgundy

Although Mortet’s 0.32 hectares of vines are located in the lower part of this historic vineyard, they are some of the oldest (more than 60 years) and most fastidiously farmed vines in the entire Clos. Château de La Tour’s meticulous owner François Labet, a straight shooter who only pays a compliment when he genuinely feels it is deserved, told us that each year when they conduct their annual Vougeot growers’ comparative tasting, this wine always comes up at—or near—the top. In short, Mortet produces a supremely fine Clos de Vougeot.

The 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru includes 30% whole bunches and was matured in 75% new oak. It is one of the finest examples we have shipped of this wine and was one of the greatest wines of our tour. Sheer perfection.

Rich dark purple, stems apparent on the nose along with dark fruit. This absolutely sings on the palate, quite high toned, gorgeous flamboyant rich red cherry fruit, then a fine weight of fruit behind. More Mortet than Clos de Vougeot.

Moderate wood frames ripe, fresh and cool notes of red and dark currant, plum, and earth and leather wisps. There is at once very good richness but also fine delineation to the solidly powerful middle weight flavors that possess good muscle on the youthfully austere, firm, serious and beautifully complex and persistent finale. Good stuff.

Aromas of sweet cherries, cassis, rich spices, incense and orange peel introduce the 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy rendition of this bottling, with a deep core of fruit and surprisingly melting tannins. Mortet's evolution in the direction of finesse coupled with the generous vintage has made for a supple, charming Clos de Vougeot that will offer uncharacteristically precocious drinking.