The 2017 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo is a dense, packed wine. It is also surprisingly, almost shockingly backward. That is probably a good thing for its long-term aging prospects. Readers hoping to get an early glimpse into the 2017 before it shuts down may have a hard time doing that, as today acids and tannin dominate. I expect the 2017 will be stellar in another 4-5 years and drink well to age 25-30 if not longer. Proprietor Giovanni Manetti gave the 2017 18 months in barrique followed by 6 months in cask.
Strikes me that these wines are kind of like the first or second growth Bordeaux style of Chianti. Lavish oak, intense tannic grip, and built for long ageing. Whether or not I like that in Italian wine is not for me to say, but gee these are powerful and impressive wines. As an aside, the corks in these wines are some of the best I’ve seen.
So much tannin. Such coiled up power. Black fruit, mocha, sage, tobacco, some licorice, dried flowers, some char and generally backwards and locked-in feel to it. A wall of tannin, blood orange tang, all structure – firm acid and grip – distinct ‘mineral’ feel to it though, and in spite of the level of oak, it seems to just shrug it off, and say ‘I’ll come over when I’m ready’. Firm coffee tinged finish of outstanding length. What a beast.
95+ points Gary Walsh winefront.com Drink 2027-2040