Enrico Gatti Franciacorta Brut DOCG, Erbusco Lombardy

Enrico Gatti purchased a single hectare in Franciacorta in 1975, before the region was to make its name as Italy’s home to great sparkling wine. Now very much a family operation, the total production is 100.000 bottles – still tiny by local standards. The vineyards, famed organically and by hand, are all planted on the region’s classic morainic terrain. Brut NV, from 100% Chardonnay, is aged for 27 months (partially in wood) and is crisp and fresh with notes of almond and bread.

Pale golden straw. Lively citrus zest and lime aromas are complemented by white flowers and chalk, and a hint of yeast emerges with aeration. Racy, precise and nicely concentrated, offering zingy lemon and orange flavors; strikes me as more lemony and crisp than the Nature. Finishes long and fresh, with a subtle note of musky herbs and a building yeasty quality. 100% Chardonnay, disgorged July 2017.