2018 Zarate Albariño, Rías Baixas Salnes Valley, Galicia

Highly textural, mineral wine with a gravelly granitic mouth feel overlaid with apple florals and grapefruit zing. Aromatics and texturality are beautifully matched: pretty and direct jasmine, elderflower, granny smith, green citric zest, sherbety acidity, sandy minerals, a titch of lanolin creaminess and a delicate bitter herb crunch to finish.

Almost overbearing floral and aromatic character at first. But hold onto your hats and soak in the plethora of dried gooseberries, jasmine, buttercups and daffodils, before they’re joined by intense pastry notes. Full-bodied, dense and beautiful. There’s a taut string of acidity that gives this focus and an edgy quality. Drink now.

94 points James Suckling jamessuckling.com