Much like the rest of Burgundy, Chablis’ finest vineyards have (for better or for worse) become synonymous with a symbolic grower. The Defaix cellars sit just below the vines of the bony Léchet hill, in the tiny hamlet of Milly, and Domaine Bernard Defaix is the largest holder of the 1er Cru vineyard Côte de Léchet and ergo its emblematic vigneron (and the site’s only certified organic grower).
It opens expressively, with lemon rind and yellow orchard fruit shot through with chalky, mineral freshness. The palate delivers the fleshy and seamless extract of the season and is shaped impeccably by cool, juicy acidity and a delicious, quinine-like finish. Screwcap.