In his seminal book Adventures on the Wine Route, Kermit Lynch bemoaned the trend for chaptalized, high-octane Beaujolais, yearning instead for the wines of yesteryear, with their depth, natural alcohol and acidity. Chermette’s emblematic Cuvée Traditionnelle Vieilles Vignes (as it was called then) was first bottled in 1986 at the behest of Jean Brouilly, then Michelin-starred chef of Tarare. It instantly caused a sensation, launching the fame of the Chermette wines and igniting heated debate within the region. Uncapitalized and unfiltered (inadvertently or not), this wild-ferment, low sulphur, old-vine cuvée sailed over the oceans of bland, homogenised Beaujolais being produced at the time. It also raised the bar considerably for quality, non-cru Beaujolais and remains a benchmark today.
The fruit source is four hectares in Saint-Vérand on a pocket of dark granite—a soil that partly accounts for the wine's cru-level depth and minerality. The vine age also helps, ranging from 35 to 85 years. These vines typically produce a considerably deeper, plumper wine than the entry-level Griottes. Kelley’s note describes the wine well. It’s a deliciously lucid release with pretty mineral/floral scents and an engaging balance between lacy red fruit and crunchy freshness. Essence of Beaujolais.
Bursting with aromas of cherries, blackberries and peonies, the 2019 Beaujolais Origine Vieilles Vignes is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a sweet core of ripe but crunchy fruit and powdery structuring tannins. Gourmand and charming, this has turned out very well.