From vines aged between 60 and 100 years old, the 2012 Brut Special Club Grands Terroirs de Chardonnay is showing superbly, unfurling in the glass with aromas of green orchard fruit, grapefruit zest, nougat, brioche and fresh yoghurt. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's deep and muscular, with racy acids and a long, saline finish. While this can be approached sooner, it will really reward a bit of bottle age.