2019 David Duband Gevrey Chambertin, Burgundy

Regarded as one of the rising stars of Burgundy, David Duband took over his family domaine a very young age and now has more than 20 vintages of experience behind him. Starting with very small family holdings David, together with his business partner Francois Feuillet, have added to his portfolio of wines through the purchase of some exceptional old Grand cru vineyards throughout Gevrey Chambertin and Morey St Denis. In recent years David has adapted his work in both the vineyards and cellars and in the last few years is producing wines with not only remarkable finesse and detail but also exhilarating intensity and freshness. Working organically in the vineyards and with low levels of S02 in the cellar he also uses a relatively high percentage of whole bunch ferment and a low percentage of new oak for ageing and this is adapted to each wine as it needs. This results in wines of striking purity with fabulous depth and intensity without sacrificing the details of the origins of each parcel of grapes. These are wines showing terroir and the soil signature of the fruit for each parcel above all else. These are wines that are built to age classically and gracefully.

80% of the blend comes from Brochon vineyards that include Les Journaux, Les Gueulpines, Les Croisettes and Créot, with the rest from Pince Vin on the Gevrey side). Here too there is a whiff of herbal tea to be found on the fresh red berry scents that are cut with hints of the sauvage. Here too there is an attractive texture to the medium bodied flavors that exude evident minerality on the firmer, more complex and more persistent finale.

88-91 points Allen Meadows burghound.com Drink 2027+ January 2021