40% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir, 30% meunier; Brut Réserve, aged 4 years on lees, with 17.5g/L dosage of cane sugar; cork
Nocturne deserves more respect than its flamboyant ‘city lights’ livery might suggest. The recipe is a more mature and slightly sweeter version of Brut Réserve – not too cloying, and not a ‘leftovers’ cuvée of rotten fruit and too much tailles, as sweet champagnes all too often tend to be. By comparison, this is well made and fruity, with a yellow fleck to its medium straw hue and layers of apricot tart, baked peach and pineapple fruit, upholding some of the glittering lemon freshness of chardonnay that defines Taittinger. The dosage lends boiled-sweets notes, which meld with the honey and roast almonds of maturity. It’s not too sweet, particularly when served well chilled. It holds good persistence, balanced acidity and fine chalk mineral poise. Turn down the lights, crank up the volume and give it a swing!