The notes on Les Argiles explain why this great Vouvray isn’t named as so on the label, but rather as Vin de France. In addition, the word ‘clos’ cannot be applied to a Vin de France, so for now, the wine that should be known as Clos Baudoin—for the legendary vineyard where it is grown—is currently simply sold as Baudoin.
Regardless, as followers will know, since purchasing the Clos in 2001, Chidaine’s (biodynamic) management has replaced Clos Baudoin on its throne as one of the few ‘Grand Cru’ Vouvray vineyards. Sitting on the crest of a hill and elevated over the surrounding countryside, the Clos Baudoin vineyard is 2.7 hectares in size with an average vine age of over 70 years. The soils are clay and limestone, with a deep limestone (tuffeau) subsoil. Despite this being a stunning drink, a deep and powerful release that already offers a lot of generosity, the 2018 Baudoin nonetheless begs to be cellared further.