2019 Domaine Lucien Muzard Santenay 1er Clos Faubard, Burgundy

Top 10 Best Value Producers in Burgundy  Clive Coates MW

This comes from parcels in Maranges and in Santenay, plus a one hectare parcel in the Hautes Côtes. Raised 30% in tank and 70% in barrel (15% new). Lovely volume of red fruit with a hint of slatey minerality. Always an exceptional value, in 2015 it is just off the charts.

Nine generations of Muzards precede Claude and Hervé, who today control Domaine Lucien Muzard across 16 ha of vineyards in Santenay, Chassagne-Montrachet and Pommard. The family can trace its roots back to 1645, but it was not until the two sons took over the domaine in 1995 that it began bottling at the estate rather than selling to négociants. Today 95% of the production is red wine but the white wines are gaining in stature with each passing vintage.

Reducing vine yields and adoption of some modern wine-making techniques has resulted in spotlessly pure, great value Burgundy. They started using small bins for harvesting, a vibrating sorting table and conveyor belts rather than pumps to keep crushing to an absolute minimum as well as acquiring a new temperature controlled fermentation facility with new wooden vats and a new precision controlled press. In 2005 they began managing the vineyard organically and ultimately gained certification for biodynamic farming in 2011. Following the incessant rains of spring 2012 however they relinquished this certification and today follow a lutte raisonée, or sustainable farming path.

They continue to plough their rows and shun any use of herbicides or pesticides, let alone chemical fertilizers. In the winery these days, more whole bunches are included, typically about a third, while there are no additions of yeast or enzymes. In tandem with the move to more whole-bunch, the extraction regime has moved away from punch-downs towards a gentler remontage (pump-over) approach, while elevage is moving towards both larger oak and a subtler new-oak influence. Indeed for the first time in vintage 2015, two large foudres were included in the elevage of the Maladière. The reds are bottled unfined and with only a coarse filtration as required.

Near Gravières – above; a ‘well sited nearly 2 hectares’ with just a little white too. Very red soil here, still with plenty of small stones. With so many fine premier cru sites to choose from at this estate it is this vineyard which we have consistently found to be our pick of the best representation of these sites, both for early enjoyment and for cellaring with confidence.

From 60 to 70 year old vines on stony soil, which keeps the heat. Medium purple in colour, the fruit is richer than in the Maladière bottling, so hides the stems more. This Clos Faubard has not been allowed to become too sumptuous, retaining a fine fresh finish. Clean and powerful.

89-91 points Jasper Morris MW December 2020