Laherte Freres Ultradition Extra-Brut, Champagne

“The NV Extra Brut Ultradition is bright, dry and racy. The Ultradition is a blend of 60% Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, with the Meunier very much driving the flavor profile. Dried pear, spice, ginger and mint open in the glass, supported by bright acids that lend vibrancy and energy throughout. What a beautiful wine this is.''

90 points Antonio Galloni vinous.com

Disgorged January 2023.

Dubbed “just impeccable, especially within its peer group,” by Galloni, Ultradition is made from fruit that is both biodynamic and organically reared. There are now two reserve vintages blended in, making up 40% of the blend, and 60% is composed of barrel-aged material. The varietal blend remains 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, with the fruit drawn from seven different parcels across the Coteaux Sud d’Épernay and Vallée de la Marne (namely Chavot, Mancy, Morangis, Le Breuil, Boursault, Moussy and Vaudancourt). The average age of the vines is 30 years.
 
Aurélien Laherte naturally ferments the juice in a mixture of vessels, including two 50-hectolitre Rousseau tronconique casks, old barrels, foudre and concrete. Regardless of vessel, the wines are always on lees and malolactic conversion is partially completed (around 60-70% on average). This bottling, based on the 2020 vintage with 40% reserve wines from 2019 and 2018, was disgorged with a dosage of 4.5 g/L (extra-brut).
 
This is a top-value grower wine – bright, pure and juicy with loads of delicious redcurrant, floral and apple-skin Meunier fruit. A hint of spice adds complexity, and the finish is bright as a button, driven by zesty, mineral length. The quality delivered for this price is outstanding. Please note that the review below refers to the previous bottling.